Caring for Your Art Collection

Just before passing into final Nirvana, the Buddha said:
“All conditioned things are subject to decay. Strive with diligence.”
— Mahāparinibbāna Sutta (DN 16, the Buddha’s final discourse)

This truth came up when I started thinking about this post.

I just visited the Portland Art Museum to see Monet’s newly restored Water Lilies (1914). It was a joy to see. The luminous colors now more closely match what Monet himself would have seen, which for me, as a color loving painter, was a thrill. Conservators removed a resin varnish applied in 1959 that had dulled and darkened the surface. The result is stunning — the blue pigment is almost delicious in its intensity.

Monet began rejecting varnish as early as the 1870s. He didn’t want a uniform gloss muting the carefully crafted spectrum of texture and sheen in his Impressionist masterworks. That choice, and the decisions of later conservators, are part of why we can still experience this painting today.

Although sunlight fades, humidity warps, and fire destroys, some works endure for centuries — from the world’s oldest cave paintings to medieval manuscripts on fragile parchment — thanks to careful conservation.

Many works of art are irreplaceable, unique, or rare. As collectors, even if we don’t own a Monet, we play a vital role in preserving art — honoring both its cultural and financial value, and the artist’s intentions.

This post offers a simple overview of how to select and care for fine art, especially paintings and works on paper, with conservation in mind.

Containing the Damage

Art can deteriorate in many ways — some dramatic, some subtle. Everyday exposure to light, humidity, or handling compounds over time. And accidents — like an A/C leak in my studio, a frozen pipe, or large-scale disasters like the LA fires, the Asheville Flood, or the Notre Dame fire — present unpredictable scenarios where devastating losses can occur. Even with heroic conservation efforts, water, fire, and smoke often leave irreversible marks. Some materials are simply better at resisting decay and damage.

Environmental Factors

Sunlight → fading, yellowing, brittleness
Humidity → buckling, browning, mold
Water → dissolves paint, distorts surfaces
Fire → burning, smoke stains, water damage from suppression
Pests → insects, mice

Material-Related Factors

Acid → yellowing, brittleness (think of old newsprint posters)
Warping → from inadequate support
Grease → permanent stains
Non-permanent materials → smudging, flaking
SID (Surface-Induced Discoloration) → yellowing in acrylics before barrier layers became common

Human Factors

Improper handling → dents, scrapes, scratches
Theft and vandalism → from graffiti carved into the Colosseum to someone throwing cake at the Mona Lisa in 2022

Prevention Strategies

Paintings

Substrate selection: Paper, wood, and canvas all contain acid that can cause yellowing. I often use custom birch plywood panels or prepared masonite because they resist warping.
Surface prep: In my own studio, I apply barrier layers like Golden GAC 100 or Gloss Medium to block contaminants, plus gesso for stability.
Paint lightfastness: Not all pigments are equal. As an artist, I choose materials like Holbein Acryla that are formulated to last. As a collector, it’s worth asking about pigments before you buy.
Varnish and UV protection: This remains debated. Some conservators recommend protective varnish; others argue it alters an artist’s intention. Monet himself rejected varnish, and his Water Lilies were restored to reflect that choice.

Sidebar: How Acrylic Gouache Brands Compare

Brand	Finish & Handling	Opacity / Pigment Load	Lightfastness	Permanence (when dry)	Price Range	Pros	Cons
Holbein Acryla	Velvety matte, smooth; dries fast	High opacity, strong pigment	Good overall, varies by color	Water-resistant, stable	$$$	Huge color range; pro grade	Expensive; some colors fade
Golden SoFlat	Ultra-flat, self-leveling	Extremely opaque	Excellent archival	Very permanent	$$$	Museum-quality standard	Smaller color range
Turner Acryl Gouache	Creamy, slower drying	Strong opacity	Mixed ratings	Permanent	$$	Affordable, accessible	Pigment consistency varies
Liquitex Acrylic Gouache	Smooth, fluid	Medium opacity	Good	Permanent	$$	Flexible bottles, good value	Less opaque, less matte

Collector’s takeaway: When buying a work, don’t be shy about asking artists what brands or pigments they use. Questions like “Is this paint lightfast?” or “Would you recommend UV glazing for this piece?” can make the difference between decades of color and premature fading.

Works on Paper

During a recent trip to Pasadena, I ducked into the Huntington Library to escape the heat and stumbled upon their collection of Canterbury Tales manuscripts from the 1400s. Each one, painstakingly handwritten and illustrated, rests in its own gently glowing glass case. They are an astonishing example of how fragile parchment and ink can endure with proper care.

Today, artists have a vast array of materials to work with. Here are the basics collectors should know:

Paper selection: Cotton rag or acid-free papers last longer than pulp-based papers.
Media properties: Watercolors are especially vulnerable to moisture; acrylic inks tend to be more stable.
Drawing media: Pencil and pastel can smear or create dust; some inks fade with light exposure.

Prints

Giclée (pigment-based) → high longevity on archival paper
Risograph → vibrant, but more prone to fading
Screenprint → durable, depending on ink and paper

Framing Choices

Framing styles: Float mounting vs. traditional matting
Materials: Acid-free mats and tapes are essential
Glazing: UV-protective Plexiglass or Museum Glass blocks harmful rays

Collector’s Glossary: Framing Terms

Float Frame → Artwork appears to “float” inside the frame with space around the edges, instead of being covered by a mat or touching the frame directly. Popular for showing the full edges of a piece.
Museum Glass → High-quality glass with coatings that reduce glare and filter UV light. Often the clearest option.
UV-Protective Plexiglass → Lightweight, shatter-resistant alternative to glass that blocks UV light. Ideal for large works or shipping.
Acid-Free Mats and Tapes → Mounting materials without acidic content, preventing yellowing or staining of paper artworks.

Conserving Your Own Art Collection

Home Care

Use sturdy hanging hardware
Keep art away from direct sunlight
Avoid humid spaces like bathrooms or kitchens
Keep away from smoky fireplaces
For dusting: inspect first for flaking paint (if you see some, stop and consult a professional). Otherwise, use a soft brush, like a clean makeup brush, working outward from the center.
Flaking paint or heavy grime → consult a professional conservator
Avoid folding, creasing, or long-term rolling of works on paper

Preserve the Paper Trail

Documentation is part of conservation too:

Certificates of authenticity
Sales records from artist, dealer, or gallery
Photographs of the work
Appraisals for insurance or resale

When to Call a Professional Conservator

Collectors don’t need to know every technical detail, but you should know when to seek expert help. Signs include flaking paint, water stains, mold, fire damage, or delicate works that need stabilization.

Professional conservators use specialized tools — from solvents to UV lights that reveal overpainting, to X-rays that uncover hidden layers, to microscopes for pigment analysis.

A few links if you’d like to explore further:

Smithsonian Conservation “Before and Afters”

NASA-developed tool removes lipstick from a Warhol print (Smithsonian)

Cake smeared on the Mona Lisa’s protective glass (Smithsonian Magazine)

Closing Thought

Art is fragile, but conservation allows it to endure. By caring for your collection at home, documenting its history, and knowing when to call a professional, you become part of that long tradition of guardianship — ensuring the works you love will survive for generations to come.